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[婺源酥月]唇齿留香 甜蜜乡愁(图文)

家乡美味·品味舌尖上的农村

发布时间:2017-09-25 08:43:02  作者:孙 超  来源:人民日报  点击数:载入中…

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图为查元富在摆放烤制好的酥月。常年揉面的他,手臂肌肉很是发达。 程新德摄

  中秋佳节将至,江西省婺源县浙源乡凤山村村民查元富家里的炉火又旺了起来。和往年一样,一家人今年也早早开始烤制月饼。和外地的五仁月饼、莲蓉月饼不同,查元富家做的这种月饼有一个特别的名字,叫“酥月”。

  虽然各类新式月饼层出不穷,但讲究的老派婺源人过中秋还是少不了酥月。从名字上就能看出,酥,便是这种月饼最重要的特点。酥在皮上,也酥在馅里。

  生面粉放进木制饭甑里蒸熟,加入鸡蛋、食油,老师傅用手揉面,做成酥月的饼皮。看似简单,但功夫全在一个“揉”字。查元富说,面揉得越久越透,饼皮就越酥。所以常年揉面的师父,大多有着发达的手臂肌肉。馅料以炒熟碾碎的芝麻和白砂糖为主,桂花、金橘、花生仁点缀其中。婺源土产的菜籽油或者山茶油,也是必备的原料。用揉好的面裹着拌好的馅,再用木头做的模具压成饼状,饼坯就做好了。

  查元富的儿媳妇李桃云说,能不能做成名副其实的酥月,烤制也很见功夫。只有柴火温度和食油比例的控制与配合恰到好处,才能造就酥月的地道美味。

  两三个铁盘,各自盛上十来个饼坯,推进特制的灶台,经过短暂的烘烤,就变成了焦黄色的酥月。把烤好的月饼冷却晾干后叠放在一起,再用油纸包好,系上绳子,就成了可以售卖的成品。一提月饼,不多不少,正好一斤。

  婺源酥月外表朴素,既没有复杂的花纹,也没有各色点缀。但一口咬下去,香甜的芝麻味溢满口中,桂花与金橘则构成了清爽的回味,让含糖量很高的芝麻馅不至于太过甜腻。饼皮在油脂的浸润下有了一点点韧性,香酥而不黏牙。

  查元富十几岁开始学做月饼,转眼间已经做了40年。“富记特制酥月”中的“富”字,便是来自他的名字。时间一长,十里八乡都知道了他做的酥月地道又美味。根据用的油和馅料不同,他家的月饼有每斤8元、10元、15元、25元不同的档次。现在交通便利了,不仅周边乡村的村民来找他买月饼,连婺源县城、景德镇甚至安徽的顾客都慕名而来。不仅儿子儿媳在做,忙的时候还得雇人一起做。中秋和端午快到的时候,一天从早忙到晚,能做几百斤。生意越来越好了,但查元富还是坚持手工制作、柴火烘烤。“一般的电炉达不到这种香酥的口感。”李桃云说。

  在过去食品匮乏的年代,提着两提丰腴得能沁出油来的酥月,是婺源人过节走亲戚的礼节。村里的长辈说,过去的一盒酥月,往往要等到来访的客人们全都走后,才能让家里的孩子们分食。如今这类糕点已经不是孩子们的最爱,高糖高油的酥月也不再是被推崇的健康饮食,但每逢中秋佳节买上一提酥月仍然是很多婺源人的中秋习惯。一家人团聚在一起,圆圆的酥月,对着圆圆的月亮。唇齿留香之间,便是浓浓乡愁。

 

  小贴士

  怎么吃:酥月和其它月饼一样,多油多糖,不宜一次吃太多。酥月一般采用传统油纸包装,保质期通常为30天左右,不宜久储。

 

  怎么去:从南昌乘高铁到达婺源县城,再乘班车或驾车向北约40公里往浙源乡方向,可达凤山村。

【编辑:万俊奇】
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